Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Terrain Building 101: The Pagoda, part 4 (final)

So I called up this weekend to do some more work on the 10 thunders board with Chris. My main aim was to finish the pagoda itself, as well as do some work on the shopfronts.

below can be seen the interim layout for the board.

the empty board closest is the layout for the cafe, while the board touching to jetty and warehouse is the shopfront.

So, with the pagoda, I began by redoing the top roof - I was not enamoured of the design I had before, and whats more it didt fit the rest of the roofing done. So, I stripped off the reeds, and began again.

To do this, I made the struts with the horn motif again, and glued them in place. I then used the same material to make triangular sections that abutted on the centre pole and stood on the struts, to give the second angle to the roof.

I then glued down some hard cardboard to form the roof itself, and covered this in the reeds again. the second angle was then clad using reeds as well, to give continuity to the roof. The capstone was then made by gluing a bead, part of a halogen light, and a washer together, spraying them with Halfords Ivory primer and then washing them with wood stain.

Next, I worked on the second level. This was both more and less complex than the first floor. I began by making a low wall around the entire centre for the roof sections to sit onto. This was done by cutting the wood used for the horn struts into shape and sanding them to get the correct angle.

I also used candyfloss sticks to give a step up on all the wall sections, and used them as interstitials between the pillars. I also used them to form the bell bar. The bell was a spare brass bell that Chris had in his collection of bitz. This was tied into place using string and then the string was coated in glue to set it in place.

Next I used candyfloss sticks to make supports for the roof sections, and then glued thick card onto these to form the roof.

Next, I glued the top roof section onto the pillars, and used doctors tongue depressors to make the balcony sections.

I next glued the reed sections onto the cardboard to form the roof, and used the candyfloss sticks to form the balcony railing again.

At this point, the pagoda was almost finished. All that was left was to build the raised platform for it, and to cobblestone it and make steps up.

The platform was made by using chamfered wood to give an angle up to the pagoda proper.

The cobblestone effect was done by using textured wallpaper cut to shape, which was first sprayed with black and ivory to get hte correct colouring, and was then glued in place. The back stairs were made by cutting into the platform section and gluing a cut to size doctors tongue depressor into place.

The front stairs were made by cutting into the platform and inserting steps made from the wood used to make the horn struts. Next, a section of wood was cut to shape, painted, and glued to the front of the steps. The front fence was a piece of terrain from chris' Bits box as well.

The very last thing to be done was to make the ladder for the second floor. This was done by gluing fence sections from Chris' bitz box to candyfloss sticks and spraying them ivory. A candyfloss stick was then put in place to act as a rest, and when this was adjusted to the correct length, the ladder was glued to it and then lashed in place with string.

I'll post the pictures of the shopfront later. My phone is being a bit finnicky with the uploads...

Sunday, August 19, 2012

Ten Thunders Board part 3: Building the first floor, and Roofing Done Right (tm)

updates on the pagoda:

so I went out to Chris again yesterday and managed to do a hefty amount of work on the pagoda. I would say it needs maybe one more day of work to finish it off now.

So to start off with, I needed to work on getting the second floor done. I began by adding the back walls, as well as spacers for the roof sections to sit onto.

next, I clad the outer wall:

Next, I had to set out the framework for the roof. To do this I used some thin oblong rod (4mm by 12mm) that I cut into shape to give the prongs of the roof joins. I glued these in place, then used coffee stirrer sticks, doctors tongue depressors and candy floss sticks to lay out a framework for the roof sections. The roof sections were then cut out of cardboard and glued in place.

I also put in floorboards (using coffee stirrer sticks cut to size) and wallpapered the inner walls. The Kanji used were for War, Honor and Strength.

The other major aspect of the wall layout was the mesh wall sections for the front of the building. These were made by cutting a wire mesh to size, and then using glue and tongue depressors to glue them in place. To hold the top of these wall sections steady, holes were drilled into the pillars and a candyfloss stick was cut to size and inserted. This gave the wall sections some added stability, and allowed me to glue the top of the wire mesh and tongue depressors in place.

Next, I cut a section of wood into an approximate shape and sanded it into the right size and shape to act as the lintel for the door. here is a progress shot up to this point:

the next steps were to lay out the balcony and then the roof. I started by cutting some tongue depressors to size and laying out a balcony around the entire edge of the building, using the roof edging supports as, well, supports.

A second set of tongue depressors was then cut to give an edging and a lip, and also to give a straight edge for the roof sections to abut onto.

the roof was the next part to get worked on. This was done by using PVA to affix thin wooden reeds (taken from reed table mats of all things) that had been cut to size onto the cardboard roof sections.

having done the roof section for the first floor in this style, I have decided that I need to go back and re-do the top roof section in order to tidy it up and to also include roofing struts with a similar motif (since the top roof section currently is missing anything resembling these).

Once the roof sections were finished, the inside of the floor needed to be finished. This consisted of using candyfloss sticks as an edging around the base of the wall sections, and using the oblong wooden sticks to make steps up on the three remaining sides.

Finally, all that was left was to add railings to the balcony. This was done by drilling holes into both the roofing struts and the centre of the outermost balcony plank to seat the uprights for the railings. These were made of candyfloss sticks that had been rounded to fit into the holes.

Once the uprights were in place, alternating sides were edged in, either using tongue depressors (to give cover for gaming purposes) or candyfloss sticks (to leave open).

At this point, the only remaining things left to do on the ground floor interior and the first floor is to paint the top of the walls so they blend in when the first and second floors are removed.

With regards further work on the building, the following is what needs to be done:

- floor the second floor
- add roofing sections, roofing struts, and a balcony to the second floor.
- add in bell section on the second floor.
- make a ladder for 1st floor ->2nd floor. Possibly include a bracket to hold the bottom of the ladder in place when the second floor is removed.
- rebuild the top floor roof section. This will involve removing the old roofing, and rebuilding it in the same style as the first floor roofing section to include the roofing struts.

Also, I need to finish the exterior of the ground floor. This will consist of pillars raising the ground floor up another inch or so, with a low wall blocking direct access to the building, but with stairs up either side. I will also need to cobblestone the exterior floor section.

so, thats as far as I have gotten so far. Below are some up to date pictures of the building as it stands.

Sunday, August 12, 2012

Terrain building 101: building a 10 thunders pagoda part 2

Pagoda Updates:

So, I headed back out to Chris yesterday and got a bit more done on the pagoda. The ground floor interior is now complete, with the exception of windows sills and framing, and painting the tops of the walls.

The roof of the third floor is also complete. This was the hardest of the three roof sections, as it comprised of two separate slopes, and has the steepest angles of any of the roof sections.

on the ground floor, the outer walls were clad using coffee stirrer sticks that were dyed blue with watered down cote d'arms blue ink, as were the internal pillars. The inner walls were then wallpapered using a light orange / peach paper. These were cut to size and woodglued on. The images are taken from artwork from the game Bushido (www.bushido-thegame.com) and were taken either form the wallpapers available, or from the deviantart profile of the original artist (dinmonkey).

I took the pictures, trimmed them oval and feathered the edges to give the effect seen.

one thing that isnt shown is the washers. To base the inner pillars (and to hide the edges of the floorboards where they abut the pillars), I used 1 mm thick washers, with a 9mm inner diameter. These were sprayed using the halfords Red Oxide primer, and then simply wood glued and slipped down the pillars.

The final thing that was done was preparing the second and third floors: the hole for the ladder up to the third floor was cut, and the exterior pillars for the second floor were laid out and glued. To keep the height correct in the holes for the pillars, the top of the ground floor internal pillars was coated in petroleum jelly to prevent the PVA sticking. This was required as the inner pillars match up to the same holes in order to align the second floor correctly.

Still to do:

- make a ladder, or convert an existing ladder by adding a ladder pedestal.
- floorboard the second and third floors
- add roof sections to second and third floors
- add balconies to second and third floors
- wall second floor, and wallpaper interior (and clad exterior)
- put in steps on second and third floors up to the balconies
- build bell /gong section for third floor
- cobblestone the exterior of the ground floor.

Terrain building 101: building a 10 thunders pagoda part 1

So, I called over to Chris this weekend just past to hang out and either do some terrain making or some gaming.

I started out helping to make some hedges etc, and then I got bit by the bug: I decided to make a 10 thunders board.

So, While Chris does the boglands boards, I'm working on a 10T board to join in with them. The layout of the boglands boards is such that they are interchangeable - each board section can pretty much align to either edge of one of the others. It was with this in mind that Chris and I sketched out the layout for the 10T board (i tell a lie - I spat out a few ideas and Chris massaged them into a workable board layout :D).

Anyway, I decided to start out with a centrepiece for the board - a Pagoda.

So, I started out by layout out an octagonal design for the building. It's going to be 3 stories, with a roof on each section, as well as a balcony area on the second and third floors.

Next, I cut the floors to size, and drilled holes for each set of pillars. The floors are made of 6mm ply, while the pillars are 9mm dowel rods cut to size.

[picture here]

Next, I drew the wall designs, Chris cut them out, and I fitted them to the structure and glued them in place.

I also started the layout for the stairs, by putting in 8mm by 2 mm pillars in place to support the stair platform:

a progress shot with the floors cut and some of the walls put in place:

Next, I built the stairs. These were made using doctors tongue presser sticks and the material used for the pillars as a support. The steps themselves were cut to size and belt sanded to give the edges I wanted.

Next, I nailed (and glued) the pillars down, as well as the stair platform and the first stair section.

It was at this point that I realised that I had forgotten to put the flooring down first. Doh.

So, thus began a time consuming project to put down floorboards throughout.

progress shot!

I finished the floorboards, put beading around the edges, and built the second staircase section.

In addition to the above, I clad the stair platform, cut the hole in the second level for the stairs, and cut and glued the pillars for the second and third floors and steeple.

This saturday I'm headed down again, so I'll be working towards getting a bit more done :D

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Little Red Riding Dead - Dead rider from start to done in a day

hey folks,

so in keeping with the "week of painting like a mad fool and *actually* getting stuff done" week, I painted up my Dead Rider this evening.

Assembling the beasty wasnt too difficult - pinning the leg pieces and torso together were a doddle, but pinning the scythe arm was quite annoying - it had a tendency to rotate while the glue was drying, meaning I had to re-glue it twice. In addition, the snazzy horns it has are ridiculous. the sockets in the back of the horses skull need to be drilled out quite a bit to fit them, and they themselves are really fragile. Eventually got everything sorted however, and so moved onto painting.

My thought process going into the painting segment was that I wanted a mount that was very reddish in colour, while still maintaining a hint of the necrotic ickiness that so characterises undead in general.

To this end, I decided to start from a yellow base coat, using Iyanden darksun as the base. As you can see, I left the horns unattached until the very end, as they interfere with painting too much.

I then base coated using Scab red, followed by a very heavy drybrush of red gore, followed by blood red and blazing orange. The Tail I continued with golden yellow drybrushing.

I followed all of this up with a thick wash using the Liquitex Napthol Crimson ink.

After leaving the ink to dry, I did a heavy drybrush of vomit brown, followed by bleached bone.

I also started working on the other details, using shadow grey on the tunic, chaos black on the scythe handle, a 50% watered down mix of vermin brown on the saddle, and a basecoat of hormagaunt purple on the cloak.

I decided to go for a darker skin shade on the rider, and so opted for Tallarn flesh for, well, the flesh.

One thing I was aiming for here was a colour palette different from the majority of other models that I had painted, as I wanted to try something new.

I next used boltgun metal to pick out most of the metallic detailing, with some of the detailing such as wrist cuffs, riders kneecaps and filligree on the horses neck armour being picked out with shining gold.

As you can see to the left, the horses skin tones are much darker, and redder. This was accomplished by a very heavy wash over the tail and all the horse flesh with the GW Baal red wash.

I also used purple ink to darken the cloak, in preparation for further work.

The battery died during most of the rest of the painting unfortunately, so I dont have that many more photos.

With regards how I continued the painting - I focused on different sections:

With the cape, I used warlock purple, followed by a very light edging with tentacle pink, finished off with a heavy wash of leviathan purple wash.

With the horse flesh, I continued to work on it, first drybrushing again with vomit brown. I then used a succession of different washes to give me the colour I was aiming for. I used a light wash of leviathan purple around the pustules around the neck and groin region, as well as a medium heavy thrakka green wash. After this, I lightly drybrushed with vomit brown again, and gave another heavy wash using the baal red.

At this point, I attached the horns, basing them using Dheneb stone foundation, followed by bleached bone. I used Ice blue to pick out the rune detailing, and I used codex grey as the basecoat of the stone underneath the front foot.

I finished off the model with a heavy wash of gryphonne sepia over everything except the cloak - I wanted to preserve the dark purple colour, and washing with the sepia tends to turn the purples into a muddy brown colour. :(

Basing the model was relatively simple, with edge highlights on the stone with fortress grey and space wolves grey giving detail to that, while simple static grass and gravel bits finishing it off. The final touches were using ice blue to do the eyes, and a small skull I had lying around to give the base more detail.

All in all, I'm quite happy with the little fella. He's suitably imposing, and he's more eye catching than my hooded rider proxy (which I need to touch up, now that I think about it...)

Anyway, heres a final picture of his Paleness. Whatcha think?

Monday, March 26, 2012

Snowstorm - Progress!

So, Snowstorm.

The model itself is beautiful, although it had serious mold lines on it as well. Except for the horns, Snow herself and Snow's hands, the model is completely resin. Its also huge. :D

So, after sorting out the mold lines and assembling the figure, I began by basecoating it using skull white. Next, I painted the fur areas of Storm, using a red colour scheme. I did this by starting from mechrite red, going through blood red to blazing orange. After this, I used Liquitex Napthol Crimson ink to redden the area, followed by a very heavy wash of GW's Baal Red wash over the whole model, except for the horns, which had a coat of chestnut ink applied to them.

Next, I painted the skin areas using Bleached bone, followed by a heavy wash of Asurmen Blue. The claws and hooves were painted using chaos black.

To the right you can see the first WiP shot of Storm.

Next, i continued working on the skin tones. To do this, I started out by using ice blue to create a mid range starting point. I avoided filling most of the crevasses, as I wanted to retain the darker shading from the wash.

Once I had created the ice blue basecoat, I highlighted the muscle tone using a mix of ice blue, bleached bone and skull white in a ratio of 1:2:2 ratio.

I continued to highlight, mixing the mixture from above in a 1:1 ratio with skull white. This was followed by a final highlight using pure skull white. a heavy wash of a 50% watered down asurmen blue wash was then applied to the skin areas.

I finished the hair next, but drybrushing with blazing orange and golden yellow, before another heavy wash of baal red wash.

Finally, I highlighted the hooves and claws with codex grey, and picked out the teeth using bleached bone.

The horns were tricky to do - I first used a coat of bestial brown, followed by vomit brown. While the vomit brown was still wet I blended it with chestnut ink, followed by snakebite leather, followed by chestnut ink again.

With Snow, I used the 1:2:2 mixture as above as a basecoat. Next, I used purple ink to start off the coat. I then shaded it using liche purple, warlock purple and tentacle pink. This was finished off by a heavy wash of leviathan purple ink. The hair and fur on the coat was basecoated using bleached bone. A green ink was then applied to the hait, while gryphonne sepia was applied to the fur.

The toggles on the coat were then finished using a purple ink wash.

This finished off the models. Basing the model was done by using PVA glue and Woodland Scenics Snow. The crystals on the base are quartz crystals that were coated in blue ink and drybrushed with skull white.

Below can be seen the finished model. I'm thinking of going back and changing the toggles on the coat - what do you guys think?